"Splash" - How to paint a drop of water

"Splash"

5" x 7" watercolor painting

by Karen A. Cooke

Painting water can be challenging.  Since water itself is clear, the key to painting water is to use the color of it's surroundings.  In the painting above, I used blue to reflect the color of the sky and make the water stand out on the paper.

The painting above was painted with only one color of paint - Windsor Blue  The intensity of the color is regulated by the amount of water added to the paint and how the paint is layered on the paper.
Using this type of technique will help beginners understand the strength of color when water is added and how much water to use.  This technique also helps with learning how to layer the paint to achieve color variation.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (type and size of your choice)  - I used a 5" x 7" piece

Masking tape or watercolor notebook

Watercolor board, if using sheet paper

Brushes: round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)

Paint:

• Windsor Blue

Painting Instructions:
I sketched the shape of the water splash to make the painting easier to do. 

Splash:
Look at the painting above and using a pale wash of blue start painting at the top and work your way down to the bottom of the splash.  While this pale wash is still wet, start adding additional washes of Windsor Blue in deeper intensities allowing the washes to blend together.  Refer to the painting above for location.  Allow to dry. 

Water/Reflection at base of splash:

Painting wet on wet add washes of blue in the same way as the splash with the deepest intensity near the base of the splash.  Be certain to leave some areas unpainted and white.  Allow to dry. 

Finishing touches:
Using a liner brush, add a some deeper lines of Windsor Blue to define areas of the splash.   Refer to the photo above.  

Congratulations!

Happy Painting!
Karen

How to Paint Storm Clouds

Texas Storm Clouds

9" x 12" watercolor paper

by Karen A. Cooke

This watercolor was painted from a photo taken by a friend during a recent trip to Texas.  I liked the clouds in the photo and asked permission to use her photo to demonstrate painting clouds.

Photo used for painting reference on left;

Painting on right

The painting above provides great practice for painting storm clouds..  All elements of this painting are loosely painted with minimal amounts of detail.  The painting was also painted on a slight slant to allow the paint to flow on the paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (type and size of your choice)  - I used a 9" x 12" piece

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: flat, liner and round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)
Old credit card or palette knife

Paint:

• Sepia
• Payne's Gray
• Cadmium Orange
• Burnt Sienna
• Yellow Ocher
• Ultramarine Blue

Painting Instructions:
Lightly sketch the horizon on the page.  No other sketching will be needed. 

Sky:
Use a large round brush to paint the sky area.  Wet the sky from the top down to the horizon using clean water. Using a pale wash of Cadmium Orange drop in some color in various locations in the sky.  See above photo for location.  While this is still wet, paint in a wash of the Paynes Gray, apply the paint working from the top of the painting down to the horizon.  Add Ultramarine Blue in various areas of the sky and also increase the intensity of the Paynes Gray in some areas.   However, do not completely cover the entire sky area.  Allow some white areas to remain.  Using a tissue or paper towel, lift some of the paint to create lighter areas in the sky for clouds, if needed.  Pick up the painting and tilt to the bottom left to add some flow to the watercolor on the page and create some movement in the clouds.  Allow to dry.  

Horizon Trees

Using a deep wash of Paynes Gray and your round brush, paint in the trees on the horizon.  Vary the heights of the trees to add interest.  Refer to the photo above for placement. Allow to dry.

Grasses:
Using a wash of Brunt Sienna and Yellow Ochre, paint the base of the grassy area moving from lighter shades in the back and moving to darker shades in the front.  While still wet, drop in a wash of Sepia in various locations for the base of the tall grasses.  While this area is still wet, use either the sharp edge of a credit card or a small palette knife and pull up some paint to indicate the grasses.  Allow to dry. 

Finishing touches:
Using a liner brush, add some additional grasses moving from small and short grasses in the horizon to taller grasses in the foreground.  Allow to dry.  Using a utility knife, scrape in some highlights in the tall grasses. 

Congratulations!

Happy Painting!
Karen

One Color Painting

Quiet

5" x 7" watercolor painting

by Karen A. Cooke

The painting above was painted with only one color of paint - Paynes Gray.  The intensity of the color is regulated by the amount of water added to the paint and how the paint is layered on the paper.
Using this type of technique will help beginners understand the strength of color when water is added and how much water to use.  This technique also helps with learning how to layer the paint to achieve color.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (type and size of your choice)  - I used a 5" x 7" piece

Masking tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)

Paint:

• Paynes Gray

Painting Instructions:
The only pencil line I used on this painting was the one for the horizon.  This helped keep me focused on the horizon and allowed me to keep the waterline/treeline consistent across the page. 

This painting was painted quickly wet on wet.

Sky:
Wet the sky area all the way down to the waterline.  Using a very pale wash of Paynes Gray, paint in areas of the sky.  Do not paint the entire sky, leave wide spaces of unpainted area.

Trees:
The trees are painted first with a pale wash of Paynes Gray, slightly deeper than the sky.  Paint the background trees from their tops down to the treeline.  While still damp, add in some deeper shades of Paynes Gray to indicate trees closer to the front.  Continue adding trees and painting deeper shades of Paynes Gray to the waterline.  Allow to dry.

Water/Reflection:

The reflection is painted using the same method used in the trees.  If you feel more comfortable,  rotate your paper and paint in the "normal" direction rather than painting "upside down."   Allow these trees to be "wavy" to indicate the reflection in the water.   Allow to dry. 

The water toward the front of the painting was painted in the same method as the sky.    This painting is basically a mirror image from the treeline to the sky and the treeline into the water. 

Finishing touches:
Using a liner brush, add a few trucks/branches in several locations.   Refer to the photo above. 

Congratulations!

Happy Painting!
Karen

"Island in the Lake" - Sky, Water and Reflections

Island on the Lake

9" x 12" watercolor painting

Karen A. Cooke

The painting above provides great practice for painting sky, water and reflections.  All elements of this painting are loosely painted with minimal amounts of detail.  The painting was also painted on a slight slant to allow the paint to flow on the paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (type and size of your choice)  - I used a 9" x 12" piece

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: flat, liner and round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)

Paint:

• Cobalt Blue
• Sepia
• Payne's Gray
• Cadmium Orange
• Yellow Ocher
• Sap Green
• Hooker Green Deep

Painting Instructions:
Lightly sketch this painting on your paper.  This is not an involved sketch, simply drawn the horizon, the island and make exterior shapes of the trees. 

Sky:
Use a large round brush to paint the sky area.  Wet the sky from the top down to the horizon using clean water. Using a pale wash of Cadmium Orange drop in some color in various locations in the sky.  See above photo for location.  While this is still wet, paint in a wash of the Cobalt Blue, apply the paint working from the top of the painting down to the horizon .  However, do not completely cover the entire sky area.  Allow some white areas to remain.  Using a tissue or paper towel, lift some of the paint to create lighter areas in the sky for clouds, if needed.  Work around the island and trees.  Allow to dry.  

Water:

Deeper the wash of Cobalt Blue.  Continue using the round brush and paint in the water.  Again, do not complete cover the area, leave some spaces unpainted.  Add a light wash of Cadmium Orange in various locations in the water was well as wash of a deep brown mixed from the orange and green.  This will create the shadows of the island.  Refer to the photo above for placement.  The reflections closer to the island are painted with a mix of Payne's Gray and Cobalt Blue.  Paint this quickly while the water area is still wet.  Allow to dry.

Trees:
The trees are painted with a light wash of Sap Green and the deeper colors are added next working light to dark.  Mix Sap Green with Cobalt Blue and Hooker Green with Cobalt Blue and add the shadows.  In some locations, use only a deep Blue from Cobalt Blue and Payne's Gray.   Allow to dry.    Note:  Tree branches will be painted in a later step. 

Island and Rocks:
Using a pale wash of Payne's Gray, start painting the rocks and land areas of the island.  Drop in the blue and Sepia in various locations to create the land areas and the rocks.  Refer to the photo above for location. 

Tree Branches:
Using a liner brush, paint details of branches on various trees (not all of them)  with deep shades of the green.  Do not overdo....less is more.   Allow to dry.

Finishing touches:
Review your painting and add any shadows that may be needed for depth. 

Congratulations!

Happy Painting!
Karen

Jed's Barn - Painting a Winter Landscape

Jed's Barn

9" x 12" watercolor painting

by

Karen A. Cooke

Painting winter landscapes can and usually do involve painting snow.  Snow can be achieved with watercolor painting by simply painting shadows and leaving the other areas of the landscape  unpainted.  Sounds easy - but this can often be tricky.  In order to contour the ground, shadows and shapes need to be considered as well as intensity of color.  Shadows can be shades of blue or grays and even browns, depending on the object creating the shadow.  The painting above of the old barn is an example of a winter landscape.  The focal point of this painting is the red barn; however, the snowy landscape is a large factor in emphasizing the barn.

Let's paint!

The watercolor above was painted on  140 lb. cold press paper.   I did not use my usual preferred paper (Arches).  This paper is Strathmore.  This paper is a heavyweight paper suited for beginning watercolorists or for experimenting with new techniques.  It is less expensive than Arches paper  and does not allow for excessive working or lifting of color.  I always recommend a 140 lb. weight paper for beginners as it is easier to work the paint on the page.  A good student grade paper is less expensive and keeps the beginner from being as worried about the possibility of ruining an expensive piece of paper.   Use the brand and type of paper you prefer, can afford, and feel comfortable using.

Don't worry about ruining a piece of paper.  Feel free to explore and learn new techniques......after all - "it is only paper!"

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (type and size of your choice)  - I used a 9" x 12" piece

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: flat, liner and round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)

Paint:

• Cerulean Blue
• Sepia
• Payne's Gray
• Van Dyke Brown
• Alizarin Crimson

Painting Instructions:
I sketched this drawing on my watercolor paper. However, if you feel you may need to erase multiple times, you may want to drawn on a piece of sketch paper and transfer your completed sketch to the watercolor paper. I discuss how this can be accomplished in my blog of May 11, 2016.

As a reminder: Multiple erasures can damage watercolor paper and cause pooling of water as well as differences in the way the paint is absorbed into or on the paper. Deep sketch marks will show up in a finished painting, even if they are erased. Correct perspective is an important part of this painting. Confirm that you like the perspective that you have executed in your sketch before you start painting. A poorly executed sketch done in a hurry cannot be overcome no matter how great a job one does with the paint.

Sky:
Wet the sky from the top down to the horizon using clean water. Using a wash of Cerulean Blue, apply the paint working from the top of the painting down to the horizon.  Using a tissue or paper towel, lift some of the paint to create lighter areas in the sky for clouds.  As the wash begins to dry.  paint in the impression of trees in the distance using a mix of your blue paint and Payne's Gray.  Allow to dry.  

Note: 
Larger trees:   You will paint over the top of the trees you sketched with the sky color so that the sky will be smooth.  Since the trees are painted using a darker color than the sky, they will be painted after the sky is completely dry. 

Barn:

I painted the siding of the barn first and left the roof for last.  The wood siding is painted with Crimson and Payne's Gray. 

Prepare a wash of crimson, varying the intensity from a deep red to a pale red.  Using the photo above as an example, paint the siding of the barn varying the color intensity of the red in various locations.  While the red is still wet, drop in the Payne's Gray.  Allow these colors to blend. 

Note:  Deepen the shadows under the roof line on the side of the barn with a deep shade of Payne's Gray.  This is done while the paint is still wet so that there will be no transition line from the shadow to the side of the barn. 

Barn Roof:
The roof of the barn is covered in snow.  Therefore, only the shadows are painted to indicate areas where the snow is blanketing the roof.  Areas of the roof are old and missing.  Painting wet on wet and using a mix of Payne's Gray and Cerulean Blue, paint in shadows referencing the photo above for shadow placement.  Using a deep shade of Payne's Gray, paint the areas where the roof is broken and missing on the right hand side of the roof.  The areas of broken roof where the siding shows through on the side of the barn were painted when the siding shadows were painted.  Allow to dry. 

Snow - Land contour and shadows
Using a pale wash of Payne's Gray, paint the snow on the left hillside, deepening the shadows cast by the trees.  Referencing the photo above, paint the contours on the ground and around the barn using a pale wash of Payne's Gray and Cerulean Blue. 

Note:  The shadows closer to the bottom of the page are painted with a light wash of Cerulean Blue with the intensity deepening as one moves further away. 

Trees/Grasses: 
Using  a wash of Vandyke Brown paint the trees.  Deepen the color on the trunks of the trees in various locations with Sepia. 

Add some grasses showing through the snow in various locations near the barn and under the trees.

Allow to dry.

Finishing touches:
A few details can be added in the siding on the barn now that the paint is completely dry.

Use a liner brush and Payne's Gray,  paint in a few lines for the boards adding a few deeper areas where the boards are cracked.  Do not make this very detailed.  When the paint is completely dry, use a utility knife to scratch off the paint on the siding in a few areas for highlights. 

Look over your painting and paint any finishing details you would like to add. Then, sign your painting!

Congratulations!

Happy Painting!
Karen

Walking in the Rain

                        

The painting above is a "loose" watercolor painted with a minimum of sketching.  I did drawn the lines for the sidewalk and the basic shapes of the people and their umbrellas.  Needless to say, there is very little detail in this paining.  The object of this painting to provide a feeling of the rain not a detailed "photo."

The watercolor above was painted on Arches 140 lb. cold press paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (size of your choice)

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: flat and round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)
Spray Bottle of water

Paint:

• Cerulean Blue
• Ultramarine Blue
• Sepia
• Payne's Gray
• Yellow Ocher
• Crimson

Painting Instructions:
This a very simple painting done quickly in wet on wet. 

Background Buildings, Sidewalks and Street
The light colored umbrellas are the only objects left unpainted on the first wash of color.  The umbrellas can be painted around or masked out with masking fluid or a piece of masking tape cut to the shape of the umbrella.  I simply painted around the umbrellas, but painted over the shapes of the bodies since the colors are very pale. 

Wet the entire sheet taking into consideration the umbrellas and your choice of masking.  While the paper is still wet drop in the following colors:  Ultramarine Blue, Payne's Gray, Yellow Ocher and Crimson mixed with Ultramarine to create purple. Using a vertical stroke, pull the colors down to meet the sidewalk leaving the impression of buildings in the background obscured by rain.   Using the same colors, brush horizontally across the sidewalk areas.  Brush strokes in this area can also be vertical to indicate the falling rain.  While the area is still wet, use a tissue to pull the paint from areas, leaving white streaks.  Allow to dry.

People and Umbrellas:
Using Payne's Gray, paint in the silhouettes of the people allowing areas to be lighter on various parts of their clothing.  Allow to dry and then paint the umbrella.  I used Cerulean Blue on one umbrella and a pale mix of Crimson and Yellow Ochre on the other colored umbrella.  The dark umbrella was painted with undiluted Payne's Gray.  Allow to dry.  When dry,  add the shadows of the people with a wash of Payne's Gray and the purple used above.  Spray the shadows with plain water to allow them to blur.  Allow to dry.

Sidewalk:
I used a fine liner brush to put in the sidewalk using broken lines. 

Details:

Use a utility knife to scratch in highlights on the umbrellas.

Congratulations! 

Happy Painting!
Karen

A Painting a Day - Every Day?

A Painting a Day - Every Day?  Why?

I counter with "Why not?"  Daily painting can be a habit and can make a painter more creative and successful and painting more enjoyable whether one enjoys painting as a hobby or a profession.  I received the book above for a birthday present and it offers a few tips on daily painting. 

I am often asked these questions:

• "How often you paint? 
• Do you paint every day?
• How do you know what to paint?
• Is painting work for you or is it fun?
• Why paint?

Some of these questions will attempt to be answered in today's blog.  The frequency of my painting has changed over the course of time based on the various seasons of my life.  If painting is not one's full time profession, then painting must fit into one's schedule of life, family, work and recreation.  As with all things,  priorities must be set and how often one paints depends on those priorities.    Painting for me has been a hobby and a profession during various times. 

When painting is a profession, painting is a top priority and one paints more often - at least, if one would like to be successful.    When painting is a hobby, it often gets set aside to allow for other items in one's life.  When painting as a hobby, then one must address painting as one would any other hobby - make time for it!

This post will address painting as a hobby rather than as a profession.  Work is work;  and like any job,  painting should be treated as any other profession.  However, if painting is a hobby that  is a different subject.

So,  let's start off with reasons one starts a hobby.  According to info I have read from numerous sources and from my own experiences, here are a few reasons:

1. Hobbies are healthy for the mind and body.  If you take time for a hobby that you enjoy, you can lose yourself in it and forget about your worries for a while.  Great stress reliever!
2. Hobbies make one more confident - period!  When one finds a hobby they enjoy (and one does not have to be good at it),  one practices a skill and improves by practice thus creating the motivation to continue.  According to the Huffington Post, pursuing a passion is a great way to build self-esteem, giving one an enhanced sense of purpose and improving overall quality of life. 
3. Hobbies help one structure time by "making" time for the hobby - no matter how small the amount of time.    Now, this does not need to be daily, but can be weekly, etc.  Whatever will fit into your schedule.  The point is to avoid stress, not create more by trying to fit too much into one day.  (I have been guilty of this.) 
4. Hobbies can help you grow as a person by building new social connections, adding to your identity and richness to your self concept.  You will not only feel more inspired when you have a rich and active life, but you will inspire others as well.

What does one paint?  Anything and everything!  Look around the house, outside,  on the internet, in books - paint whatever catches your interest.  

Schedule time to paint or draw - just do it!  Invest 5 minutes, 15 minutes,  half an hour or more.  Whatever amount of time fits your schedule.   I have found that the more I paint, the more I want to paint!   Practice, as with all things, make one better. 

In the past, I have taken a few minutes each day to sketch in a small sketchbook.  One that can be carried to work for a quick lunch time sketch, taken to your child's afterschool activities while waiting in the car, grabbed while you are waiting for the water to boil for the spaghetti noodles, picked up during a commercial of your favorite show (instead of the potato chips), etc.  You get the idea - be prepared and art will happen.  Like any habit, it will become 2nd nature to have that sketchbook with you. 

So, pick up that sketch book, pencil, paint brush and get started!  You'll be glad you did!

Happy Painting!
Karen

Painting Dogs - Easier Than It Seems

"Diesel"

A watercolor painting by Karen A. Cooke

Following along with painting animals from last week, this week's post discusses how to paint a bulldog.  I am not a "detail" painter and prefer a more Impressionist style of painting, the bulldog painting, conveys the dog's personality without detail - not even detailed fur.    However, you can add as much or as little detail in your painting as you like and that fits your style of painting. 

Below, I have again included some tips on painting fur from last week's blog post:

1. Most animals will have different types of fur in their coat - short smooth, long wispy  and thick/clumpy fur.
2. Animal fur is thick and will require layers of color and or detail.
3. When working with watercolor it is important to paint the lightest color fur first and build up the darker layers.   The light base color is painted first with brush stokes placed on top. 
4. Vary your brush stoke to keep the fur from looking uniform.  Animal fur is usually a little bit "scruffy" and unkempt looking. 
5. Also, be certain to leave some white unpainted areas for highlights. 

The watercolor above was painted on Arches 140 lb. cold press paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (size of your choice)

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: round, liner and flat or fan

Spray Bottle of water

Paint: 

• Sepia
• Black
• Payne's Gray
• Crimson
• Burnt Sienna
• Burnt Umber
• Mars Black

Note:  The colors above are the ones I used to paint the dog above.  Your paint colors will vary based on the color of the animal you are painting. 

Painting Instructions:
Sketch the basic shape of the dog with the most detail and attention given to the eyes, nose and mouth.  The detail of the body will be shaped by the color of the fur to define and shape.  

Body
I painted wet on wet by first wetting with clean water sections of the dog's body that I wanted to paint.  I left a dry, white area in places where I did not want the color to blend.  This white area will help define the shape of the dog rather than having one large painted area.  This gives shape without having to define it with color.  In the case of this bulldog, it also indicates areas of wrinkled skin.  Blend your colors allowing some of the painted areas to be lighter than others. 

Ears:
The ears are painted in the same manner as the body per the instructions above.  Vary the intensity of the paint leaving some areas white.  Refer to photo above.

Eyes:
Paint the eyes.  In this case the dog's eyes are brown.  Use a wash and paint the outer section of the eye with this color and allow to dry.  Paint the pupil last leaving a small white dot of white paper unpainted.  Allow to dry.  Using a liner brush or a watercolor pencil (see tip below) outline the eye.  Allow to dry. 

TIP:  Watercolor pencils can be used to help outline and define the eyes.  This is especially helpful if you feel uncomfortable or unsteady using a fine liner brush for details.  Steady hands come with practice and becoming comfortable with painting.  However, remember - it is only paper!

Nose, mouth and muzzle area:

Using a pale wash of Crimson, paint in the lower muzzle leaving some areas lighter fading into white unpainted paper and drop in some Payne's Gray.  Allow to dry.  Using a pale wash of Payne's Gray to add shading and color in in the nose and lower muzzle.  Refer to photo above.  Add dots of color using the tip of a round brush for the part of the muzzle where the whiskers are growing.  Allow to dry.  The nose is painted with Payne's Gray leaving some areas white and using black to deepen some of the areas. 

Details:

Using the liner brush and black, brunt umber and burnt sienna, paint in a few details to indicate lines, claws, etc.  Refer to painting.  Don't let this become too involved. 

Foreground:
Using Crimson and Payne's Gray in a very light wash, add a shadow in the foreground to help "ground" the dog in place rather than leaving him "floating." 

Check for any other details you would like to add.  When you are satisfied,  sign you painting!

Congratulations! 

Happy Painting!
Karen

How to Paint Cat Fur

"Prince"

5" x 7" watercolor painting of my cousin's cat

Karen A. Cooke

Different types of animal fur require different types of techniques and different brushes.  What method used depends on the animal and the final result you desire.    The following are some things to remember about fur:

1. Most animals will have different types of fur in their coat - short smooth, long wispy  and thick/clumpy fur.
2. Animal fur is thick and will require layers of color and or detail.
3. When working with watercolor it is important to paint the lightest color fur first and build up the darker layers.   The light base color is painted first with brush stokes placed on top. 
4. Vary your brush stoke to keep the fur from looking uniform.  Animal fur is usually a little bit "scruffy" and unkempt looking. 
5. Also, be certain to leave some white unpainted areas for highlights. 

Now. let's paint!

The watercolor above was painted on Arches 140 lb. cold press paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (size of your choice)

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Brushes: round, liner and flat or fan

Spray Bottle of water

Paint:

• Ultramarine Blue
• Sepia
• Black
• Payne's Gray
• Crimson
• Burnt Sienna
• Burnt Umber
• Yellow Ocher
• Hooker Green

Note:  The colors above are the ones I used to paint the fur on the cat above.  Your paint colors will vary based on the color of the animal you are painting. 

Painting Instructions:
Sketch the basic shape of the cat with the most detail and attention given to the eyes.  The detail of the cat's head will be shaped by the color of the fur to define and shape.  

Basic head shape:
Use the lightest wash of yellow ocher and a round brush to define the outline of the cat head and fur.  Remember to leave some areas white for highlights.  While this paint is still wet, pick up some of the deeper colors (burnt sienna, etc.) and place in various locations to indicate the changes in color of the fur.  Leave the area around the nose and mouth as well as around the eyes white.  This will be shaded in later. 

Ears:
The ears are painted using a pale wash of crimson.  This paint will blend with the color of the fur surrounding the ear.  Vary the intensity of the paint leaving some areas white.  Refer to photo above.

Eyes:
Paint the eyes.  In this case the cat's eyes are a gold green.  Use a wash and paint the outer section of the eye with this color and allow to dry.  Paint the pupil last leaving a small white triangle of white paper unpainted.  Allow to dry.  Using a liner brush or a watercolor pencil (see tip below) outline the eye.  Allow to dry. 

TIP:  Watercolor pencils can be used to help outline and define the eyes.  This is especially helpful if you feel uncomfortable or unsteady using a fine liner brush for details.  Steady hands come with practice and becoming comfortable with painting.  However, remember - it is only paper!

Nose, mouth and muzzle area:

Using a pale wash of Crimson, paint in the nose and mouth leaving some areas lighter fading into white unpainted paper.  Allow to dry.  Using a pale wash of Payne's Gray to add shading and color in in the nose and lower muzzle.  Refer to photo above.  Add dots of color using the tip of a round brush for the part of the muzzle where the whiskers are growing.  Allow to dry.

Details:

Using the liner brush and black, brunt umber and burnt sienna, paint in a few individual pieces of the fur.  Don't let this become too involved, just the illusion is all that you will need. 

Whiskers:

The whiskers of the cat can be done in two different ways:

1. Using a utility knife, scratch in the whisker, or
2. Using a liner brush and white paint, paint in the whiskers. 

This is your preference.  In the photo above, I used a liner brush and white paint since this would show up better on this color fur.  Darker fur would make the scratch method more useful in that the scratch would be more easier seen.

Now, track down a pet or pull up a photo on line and get started painting!


Happy Painting!
Karen

Magic Tea - Blending Watercolors

Magic Properties of Tea

Watercolor Painting - 5" x 7"

by Karen A. Cooke

I received several blends of tea this Christmas and while waiting for a cup to brew, I watched the swirls of steam rising from the tea.    This made me think of how the swirls of steam were moving and how this might be accomplished in a watercolor.  Teas are blended to create pleasing tastes and aromas, so I wanted to play around with color to accomplish a similar result in my painting. 

The magic of watercolor painting is how the paint can be blended to create pleasing and unique designs.  This painting will illustrate how to accomplish the magic of watercolor blending in a simple painting of a cup of tea and it's "magic" steam. 

Now, let's paint!

The watercolor above was painted on Arches 140 lb. cold press paper.

Supplies Needed:

Watercolor paper (size of your choice)

Masking Tape

Watercolor board

Salt (table salt and/or larger grain sea salt)

Brushes: flat and round (size of your choice based on the size of your paper)
Spray Bottle of water

Paint:

• Cerulean Blue
• Ultramarine Blue
• Sepia
• Payne's Gray
• Crimson

Painting Instructions:
This a very simple drawing of a teacup and saucer.  Do not draw in the steam rising from the cup.  The paint will take care of this. 

Cup and Saucer:
Wet the cup with clean water and using a blend of Payne's Gray and Sepia, drop in color to indicate shadows.  The cup is actually white, but you are simply painting the shadows.    I used a round brush to paint these shadows and used it to line the outside of the cup to separate the cup from the background.   Make this line very faint and light.  Allow to dry.  Be certain to allow the cup to dry before painting where the cup touches the saucer so that both appear as distinct items.  If the paint is wet, the colors will blend and the cup and saucer will appear as one piece rather than two distinct pieces. 

Tea:
Using a blend of Payne's Gray, Ultramarine and Crimson, paint the tea in the cup using a wet in wet method.  Start with the Ultramarine and Crimson in the center of the cup and add the Payne's Gray on the edges.  Allow the colors to blend and swirl together.  While the paint is still wet, drop in some salt crystals to push the paint around and create an interesting texture.    Allow to dry and brush off the salt crystals. 

This is one of the "magical"  qualities of watercolor painting:  each crystal of salt chases away the pigment to make a lighter area beneath it. 

TIP:  Salt does not always work the way expected.  It involves the paint pigment at the correct wetness as well as the speed that the paper and air dry.  However, the best results usually occur when the paint is damp and shiny.  If the paint is too dry, the technique won't work.  Conversely, if the paper has puddles of water, it will be too wet for it to work.    Practice this on a scrap piece of paper to determine the right ratio of paint and water.    This technique can be used for snowflakes, small flowers, etc. 

Magic Steam:
Wet the area of the painting above the teacup in a pattern to indicate the swirling mist of steam rising from the hot cup of tea.  Drop in Payne's Gray, Crimson and Ultramarine Blue.  Refer to the painting above for location.  The Crimson and Ultramarine will blend on the paper to create a purple.  However, you may want to blend these two colors on your palette as well to apply to the painting. 
While the paint is still wet, mist the outside edges of the paint with the spray bottle and add the salt crystals to the swirls of paint.  Allow to dry and brush off the salt crystals. 

Congratulations!  You have learned one of the "magical" qualities of watercolor painting! 

Happy Painting!
Karen